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Jaisalmer
Tourism
Jaisalmer is one of the India's most precious jewels. Fortified in golden stone, it rises like a mirage from the barren Thar desert of
Rajasthan, its 99 bastions silhouetted against the sky. Located on the trade route that carried spices and silks from Arabia, Persia and Central Asia to India, the 12th century fort is an architectural feat. Within its monumental walls stand intricately carved sandstone palaces, temples and havelis (merchant houses), alongside traditional adobe homes.
Tragically, Jaisalmer is now on the verge of collapse. The fort walls are subsiding; palaces and havelis have come tumbling down. This is a living city of 45,000 inhabitants, some 2,000 of whom reside within the fort. It is perhaps the world's only fort where medieval patterns of life still prevail. The challenge is to conserve the architectural fabric and the unique culture of
Jaisalmer. We must act now if the Golden City is to survive |
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Desert Festival
Once a year in winters and on the middle of the continually rising and falling stark yellow sands of the great Thar Desert, the empty sands around Jaisalmer come alive with the brilliant colour, music and laughter of the Desert Festival. The festival is organised by the tourist authorities as tourist entertainment around January-February.
The very rich and colorful Rajasthani folk culture is on show here for a few days. Rajasthani men and tall beautiful women dressed in their brightly costumes dance and sing lingering ballads of
velour, romance and tragedy. Traditional musicians attempt to outdo each other in their musical superiority.
The high points of the festival are - snake charmers, puppeteers, acrobats, folk performers do rapid trade. Camels, the lifeline of the desert, play a foremost role. Proud
moustache villagers, dressed in their ethnic best come astride their picturesquely caparisoned camels to join in the camel dances and competitions of camel acrobatics, camel races and décor, camel polo, tug of war and the like.
The tourist dances, turban tying competitions and tug of war are big draws and laughter. The Mr Desert competitions, which are focused around the length of moustaches by and large, attract many hopefuls.
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Desert National Park
The Desert National Park is an excellent example of the ecosystem of the Thar Desert and its rich fauna. The Sudashri forest post is the most ideal place for observing wildlife in the Desert National Park.
Sand dunes form less than 20 percent of the Park, which consists of craggy rocks, pavements and compact salt lake bottoms, intermedial areas and fixed dunes.
Its inhabitants include the blackbuck, chinkara, wolf, Indian fox, desert fox, hare and desert cat. Flights of sandfrouse start coming to waterholes from sunrise onwards.
One also hear the morning call of the grey partridge. Blue tailed and green bee-eaters, drongos, common and bush quail and Indian rollers are birds, which are commonly found around waterholes. the park is also home to the great Indian Bustard which is peril of extinction.
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Barmer
A tiny yet lively town in sun-drenched sands, Barmer is a miniature Rajasthan with all its color, warmth and tradition. According to history, the 13th century founder of the district, formed in 1949 upon the merger of Jodhpur state in the United States of Great Rajsthan, is a cluster of ancient paraganas-Mallani Shiv, Pachpadra, Siwana and the Chohatan area.
Although a barren lands with harsh climate and rough terrain, Barmer is known for its rich crafts, dances and music. One on the ancient camel trade route the town is now the center for wood carving, pottery carpets intricate embroidery work block printed fabrics and multi-hued traditional costumes.
Especially famous are the geometric ajrak prints in dark shades of red and blue, ideal for protection against the sun.
The most interesting part of trips to Barmer is the journey through rural Rajasthan. The small villages with mud-walled houses decorated with delicate folk motifts and colorfully attired people on the way offer a fascinating sight.
Every year in March, the town is at its colorful best during the exuberant Barmer festival. The festival is the best time to plan a visit to
Barmer.
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Excursions
Bada Bagh:-
Situated 6 kms. north of Jaisalmer on way to Ramgarh. Royal cenotaphs with carved images of past Maharawals & their families. Each chhatris preserve inscribed tablet recording the death of Maharawals in which the memorials are raised. The chhatris have been built on a set-pattern but in different sizes. The beautiful spot jait bundh (Dame) & Lake after Maharawal Jait Singh was constructed in 1513 AD. Attached to bundh (Dame), on other side is garden of mangoes and other fruits.
Baisakhi:-
Only 16kms. from Jaisalmer, a Tirth (religious palace) for Hindus, attracting a number of devotees on full Monday of Baisakh every year for holy dip. A temple dedicated to Lord shiva is originally of early pratihar period and seems to be restored in 16th Century.
Ram-Kunda:-
A temple, 11 kms and 1 Km. off the ramgarh route, Shrine dedicated to God Rama & Krishna, constructed during the reign of Maharawal Amar Singh in 17th Century.
Luderwa:-
16 kms. Northwest from Jaisalmer, Luderwa is the ancient capital of Jaisalmer now a silent city, the only witness to its former
splendor are the jain temple, toran (ornate arche) & artificial divine tree (Kalptaroo) are the main attraction here. Ruins of the deserted capital still remind the famous love legend of Moomal-Mahendra.
Amar-Sagar:-
6 kms. on way to Luderwa the natural spot developed by Maharawal Amar Singh is a water reservoir in 1688 AD. The dams were constructed to hold rainwater. Several terraces are formed where summer palaces, temples are constructed & Garden developed. On the south of the lake stands the exquisitely carved Jain temple constructed by Himmat Ram Bafna, the descendant of famous patwas.
Mool-Sagar:-
8 kms. on way to Sam Sand Dunes, is an another natural point. Lake, Garden, summer palaces constructed by Maharawal Mool Raj in 18th Century.
Kuldhara & Khabha:-
(Medieval Deserted village of Paliwal Brahmins)
The total number of 84 villages were abandoned by Paliwal Brahmins overnight, out of that two most prominent villages are Kuldhara & Khabha located about 18 to 30 kms. South West of Jaisalmer and Kuldhara 5 kms. of the same road. The ruins of Kuldhara & Khabha exhibit the architectural, excellence of those times, which was buried under dunes till recently.
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Jaisalmer fort
This fort is certainly one of the finest I've seen in India. Built in the 11th century of golden-yellow sandstone, above the 80m high Trikuta Hill, it has 99 turrets, and within it lies the old city, where nearly 12,000 people still reside today within its walls.
Approached through a series of 4 huge gates, the fort is a maze of small winding lanes, initially flanked by touristy shops, little child-musicians colourfully dressed and performing songs & dances. women selling imitation silver jewelry. The Fort houses a maharaja's palace, a ceremonial courtyard and beautifully carved Jain temples.
The rich merchants of yore engaged stone craftsmen who, in my mind must have been singularly obsessed about filling up all the panels, mansion walls and balconies with delicate sculptural filigree, ornamental screen windows, and elaborate lace-like detail. Today, these mansions are still inhabited, and some have been converted into hotels enabling tourists to get a feel of what living in an ancient fort would be like.
Walking through these ancient quarters is a wonderful experience . life goes on as usual, women scrubbing their vessels till they shone, preparing the day's meal, drying their long tresses in the hot desert sun, children playing in the narrow alleyways, adorable baby goats and benign cows sauntering past you, temple bells clanging, the lone voice of a desert musician emanating from some lonely corner of the fort.
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Nathmal Ji Ki Haveli
Two architect brothers built it in the 19th century. Interestingly, while one concentrated on the right, the other concentrated on the left and the result is a symphony epitomising the side by side symmetry during construction. Paintings in miniature style monopolise the walls in the interior. Mighty tuskers carved out of yellow sandstone stand guard to the haveli.
Its like straight out of an Arabian Nights fable. The name Jaisalmer induces a dramatic picture of utter magic and brilliance of the desert. The hostile terrain not with standing the warmth and colour of people is simply over whelming. One of the main draws is the daunting 12th century
Jaisalmer Fort. The beautiful havelis which were built by wealthy merchants of Jaisalmer are yet another interesting aspect of the desert city.
And you can let your eyes caress the sloppy sand dunes while you ramble your way in a camel safari. The desert citadel is truly a golden fantasy in Thar Desert. Bhatti Rajput ruler Rawal Jaisal, after whom the city finds its name, founded Jaisalmer in 1156. On advice of a local hermit Eesaal he chose the Tricut Hills as his new abode abandoning his vulnerable old fort at Luderwa just 16
kilometers northwest.
In Medieval times, its prosperity was due to its location on the main trade route linking India to Egypt, Arabia, Persia, Africa and the West. The Bhatti Rajput rulers lined their coffer with gains from traditional taxes on passing by caravans and sometimes through illicit gains by rustling cattle.
Over the years the remote location of Jaisalmer kept it almost untouched by outside influences. In the 13th century Ala-ud-din Khilji Emperor of Delhi besieged the fort for nine years in an effort to take back the treasure taken by the Bhatti Rajput from his imperial caravan train.
When the fall of the fort was imminent the women of the fort committed Jauhar, an act of mass self-immolation, while men donned saffron robes and rode to their certain death. Duda son of Jaitasimha, a Bhatti hero also perished in the battle. Dudas descendants continued to rule Jaisalmer.
In 1541 they even fought Mughal Emperor Himayun. Though their relations with Mugshal was not always hostile. Sabala Simha won the patronage of Mughal Emperor Shaha Jahan for battle distinctions in Peshawar and the right to rule Jaisalmer. In the days of Raj, Jaisalmer was the last to sign the Instrument of Agreement with the British.
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Patwon-Ji-Ki-Haveli
Patwon-Ji-Ki-Haveli, Jaisalmer This is one of the largest and most elaborate Haveli in Jaisalmer and stands in a narrow lane. It is five storeys high and is extensively carved. It is divided into six apartments, two owned by archaeological Survey of India, two by families who operate craft-shops and two private homes. There are remnants of paintings on some of the inside walls as well as some mirror work.
The most elaborate and magnificient of all the Jaisalmer havelis. It has exquisitely carved pillars and exquisitely carved pillars and extensive corridors and chambers. One of the apartments of this five story high haveli is painted with beautiful murals.
Patwon-Ki-Haveli is the largest and most elaborate haveli in Jaisalmer. This five-storeyed building extensively carved and is notable for its jharokhas (balconies).
In the early 19th century, the family of Ghuman Chand Patwa, an extremely rich patwa (trader of brocades and expensive embroidery) began construction of this mansion, an effort that took half a century.
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Salim Singh Ki Haveli
Salim Singh Ki Haveli, Jaisalmre Travel GuideThis haveli was built about 300 years ago and a part of it is still occupied. Salim Singh was the prime minister when Jaisalmer was the capital of the princely state and his mansion has a beautifully arched roof with superb carved brackets in the form of Peacocks.
The mansion is just below the hill and it is said that once it had two additional wooden storeys in an attempt to make it as high as the maharaja's palace, but the maharaja had the upper storey torn down.
Tazia Tower
Tazia Tower, Jaisalmer Travel Guide The delicate pagoda like Tazia Tower rises from Badal Mahal (Cloud Palace).
Rising in its five-tiered splendour, with each storey graced by a delicately carved balcony, the tower is of historical significance. Muslim craftsmen built it in the shape of a Tazia and gifted it to their royal patron.
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Sam Sand Dunes
Sam Sand Dunes, 42 away km from Jaisalmer, is the most popular excursion to see the total sandy bush less desert.
It has a truly glorious stretch of sweeping sand dunes. It is best to be here at sunrise or sunset, and many camel safaris spend a night at the dunes.
The best way to see this and other sights around Jaisalmer is to take a came safari.
The standard trip lasts for 4 days and three nights, and offers the opportunity to explore the area in authentic and leisurely fashion, with entertainment by folk performers, visits to villages, and chatter from colourful guides thrown in.
However you can also day trip and go by car.
Hordes of tourist arrive just before sun set. Camels can be hired easily and you may be able your favourite picture with a lone camel on a desert track and the setting sun in the backdrop.
Despite the tourist throng, the place has not lost it magic. The desert festival held sometimes in February each year is a big draw and it is full of fun, colour and laughter, cultural events and competitions.
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